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The oil seal is the same as is used in the Series landrover with the GKN Salisbury axle, Number AAU3381.
My umm has passed the annual inspection again. One thing the inspector noticed was an oil leak from the rear differential. I had noticed this myself, and so I decided to try to eliminate this oil leak.
My UMM has the GKN (English) axles
The difficult part of this operation is to remove the nut holding the flange on to the pinion shaft. It is very tight, and it’s difficult to prevent the flange from rotating.
This is the method I used.
Once the flange was held, a 28mm socket was applied to the nut with a long torque wrench.
Then, I raised the car as high as I could and then slowly dropped it down, putting the weight of the car on the torque wrench and support bar. This loosened the nut, which I could then remove.
It is recommended to mark the nut and shaft, before loosening, to help with reassembly to the correct position. If the nut is tightened too much, the axle alignment will be affected.
In addition, I thought it best to replace the fuel filter and fuel hoses.
No further problems after this with fuel supply.
A couple of weeks ago, I decided to clean the UMM. It obviously didn’t like this as it would not start afterwards.
I checked a few things and found out that fuel was not getting up to the fuel filter. I therefore decided to remove the fuel tank and clean it out and also replace the fuel hoses – just to be sure.
The pick up pipe inside the tank has a gauze filter on it and this was probably blocked. I blew air back through it until I was sure the blockage had cleared. Then the outside needed painting. While it was out I took the opportunity to remove the passenger side seat rails, which is impossible with the tank in place.I will post a picture of the painted tank later on.
Geoff
The campaign against leaks and drips goes on. I noticed that there were drips coming from the power steering reservoir, and then on to the floor. The outside of the reservoir was wet, and so it was logical that the lid seal was leaking. I ordered a new set of seals from Pecas UMM in Portugal, and have now fitted these. There is the large seal that goes around the edge of the lid and two o rings for the screw that holds the lid down, plus a rubber washer. There is a small vent hole in the screw which is covered by the top o ring. No drips so far.
Additionally, I have now wire-brushed all of the old glue from the fibreglass sides and roof in the rear section. That has been followed by two coats of the “Brave Ground” vinyl silk from Dulux. That looks better!
I found that the air vents on the dashboard, and also the screen vents, were not passing much air when the windows were closed. The reason is because this bodt style does not have any body vents at the rear, unlike the steel roofed versions.
So I fitted a pair of aftermarket vents into the rear panel of the body. This was easy to do as it is fibreglass. The front air vents now work well, even with the windows closed.
Last weekend I took the UMM along to Lichfield “Cars in the Park” . This annual event attracts all kinds of classic cars and is very popular. There was a lot of interest in the UMM. I find that kids especially seem to like it.
I had noticed one or two oil drips. One seemed to be coming from the engine sump, so I decided that
it would be a good idea to change the sump gasket. I’m glad that I did because there was an amount of sludge is the sump, which has probably been washed down with using the car, after a long time sitting unused. So we shall see if the oil drip is cured.To replace the missing headlining, I decided to fit the front cab out in wood panelling. Here is the finished installation, although I will be painting the wood to finish it off properly.
I may do the rear compartment roof in a similar way, but it is a bit of hard work to make it stick. The noise levels in the UMM are now at an acceptable level.
I have been restoring the dashboard. The nearest colour I could find is called “Brave Ground” by Dulux. It is a pretty close match to the original sandy colour, but is only available in Matt finish. I bought a sample pot to try it out and then overcoated with clear varnish spray. That’s better.
And here are some of the self adhesive pads I have applied. I am choosing panels where I can hear a resonance when struck.
I can report that the sound deadening methods I have used are producing results. The noise has reduced to a bearable level.
Here is what the foam looks like after trimming.
One thing that was clear on the 300 mile round trip was that something would need to be done about soundproofing! So I ave applied some sound deadening panels, and injected expanding foam in one or two areas – including under the bonnet. This is what it looked like before trimming off the excess. It seems to have deadened the vibrations, but I will only be able to check the effect on a run.
The next morning, Graham and his son, got all of their UMM’s out for a line up. Here they are with Graham in the picture.
The first long trip I undertook was to visit Graham Potter in West wales. He is the UK UMM guru, who was largely responsible for keeping the UMM owners club going over many years.
I camped out overnight at his place, and in the evening, visited Aberaeron to give the UMM a look at the sea.
In the last few days, I have been making some adjustments. The seat was too low for me, and so I removed the seat and frame and re-welded it at a higher position. Then I felt that the steering wheel was now too low, so I removed the column supports and modified it so that the wheel was a little higher, to give adequate room for my legs underneath. I had thought about doing this on my last UMM, but never got around to it. The driving position is now much better for me, and I am now ready for a longer trip.
